Stepping into the recently refurbished andBeyond Phinda Forest Lodge had all the feels of somewhere familiar, the same comfort but with a more contemporary edge. The updates have enhanced this already exquisite lodge, but the essence remains unchanged. The same towering trees stand tall around the lodge, the same views, the birdlife is just as abundant, and the same soothing sounds of nature still fill the air.
Our luxurious Forest Suite – a sanctuary of glass and light, is set within the rare and ancient Sand Forest, where trees are draped in lichen and the diminutive suni antelope moves quietly through the underbrush. I take a moment to appreciate the floor-to-ceiling glass walls that invite the forest in.
The decor is a celebration of eco-chic Zulu creativity, blending rich textures, handcrafted details, and a colour palette that that reflects the surrounding landscape. Sliding screen doors allow the night air to drift in, carrying with it the distant whoop of hyenas, the eerie cry of bush babies, and the gentle rustling of leaves.
Morning starts early; birdsong wakes me from my slumber long before the scheduled wake-up call. The day’s game drives holds the promise of incredible sightings – the excitement builds as we head out with Cameron, our guide and tracker, Josiah.
We explore the reserve’s diverse habitats – grasslands teeming with zebras, giraffe and wildebeest, wetlands alive with the call of African fish eagles, and dense thickets where black rhinos lurk unseen in the shadows, or perhaps an unseen leopard peers at us through the undergrowth as we drive by. We watch cheetah brothers as they scan the horizon, for prey as well as potential danger. A huge herd of buffalo grazes their way across the plain and a herd of elephants make their way through the trees, the matriarch leading the way.
A welcome stop midway through the morning drive brings the chance to stretch our legs and enjoy a hot coffee laced with Amarula and homemade crunchie biscuits. I stand beneath a huge Lebombo wattle in this patch of pristine Sand Forest sipping my coffee, a small but special luxury, a moment to simply take it all in before we continue.
After a hearty breakfast back at the lodge guests have the opportunity to visit the Spa, take a dip in the pool or just curl up with a book. Binoculars in hand I choose to sit quietly and watch as birdlife flits through the branches beyond the deck.
I venture past the Spa – it looks beautiful and the spa therapists invite me to make a reservation for an hour or two of pampering, but our afternoon drive is beckoning. I make a note to myself to add this to tomorrow’s to-do list.
High tea precedes the afternoon game drive, which once again, doesn’t disappoint with lions, hyena and white rhino. As the sun begins its descent, we find the perfect spot for sundowners. A chilled G&T in hand, I watch the sky shift into soft oranges and pinks, the silhouettes of acacias stark against the fading light. It’s a simple but perfect way to end the day, appreciating the vast beauty of the landscape around us.
Back at the lodge, dinner is a relaxed affair, filled with fresh, local ingredients and bold flavours, each meal is thoughtfully prepared by Chef Zoni and his team. The warm glow of lanterns, the hum of conversation, and the genuine hospitality of the andBeyond team make for a memorable evening.
Phinda Forest Lodge may have a fresh new look, but it still offers the same sense of tranquility and connection to the wild. Where luxury and wilderness meet seamlessly, and where every moment feels like a privilege to experience.
