We’d spent time overlooking the Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe and it was now time to drive the roads, walk the trails and picnic alongside the mighty Zambezi.
My idea of a perfect morning in the bush involves crisp air, untamed wilderness, and (of course) a dash of luxury… a morning that kicked off right on your doorstep, with a pre-sunrise pickup from Shongwe Oasis in Victoria Falls. Garth Adams, owner of The Victorian Safari Company, was waiting for us in his vintage safari vehicle, a beautifully refurbished mint green Landrover (aka the Landie). We hop on board, excitement brewing, and eager for our adventure, the Courtney Bush Walk, to begin.
The sun is rising over Zambezi National Park, birds are chirping, and after a brief stop at the park’s entrance for formalities, we head into the park. There’s a smell of dust in the early morning air and buffalo dung alongside the road, we keep a look out hoping to spot the herd, but they seem to have disappeared into the lush bush. An impala ram high tails it across the road in front of us… birdsong abounds.
We pass several large baobab trees, I notice that their bark is protected by wire mesh, this Garth tells us is to protect them from elephant damage, and explains that they strip and eat the bark, often gouging into the wood to get the juicy pulp inside. Previous damage is evident, but thankfully they have the ability to heal the wounds within a few years. Baobabs are a keystone species that provide habitat for dozens of bird, mammal and reptile species, so their destruction has a knock-on effect to biodiversity.
A vulture in a nearby tree alerts us to possible overnight action, the smell of a carcass leads us to the remains of a giraffe, which Garth points out has been dead for several days. There’s not much more than skin and bones remaining, the vultures almost done with their clean-up job. A few white-backed vultures and a couple of hooded vultures are still hanging around, clearly intent on picking the bones clean. The smell is overpowering, and we choose to move on.
A warthog forages alongside the road, the lush grass clearly more interesting than any possible threat we may present. A woodland kingfisher calls from a nearby thicket but deftly evades our cameras, whereas a broad billed roller has no such qualms and poses beautifully against the clear blue sky. White-fronted bee-eaters flit around catching bugs on the fly and a flock of helmeted guineafowl scratch around in a sandy patch. We pause momentarily to appreciate the vistas over the Zambezi before moving on.
Garth turns down a narrow road in the bush and parks the Landie to one side – now the real adventure begins, a bush walk! He is one of only a few guides operating in Victoria Falls that are qualified to walk guests in a Big Five area, an experience that elevates our game drive from observer to participant. This isn’t just a stroll; it’s an immersive encounter with nature, we follow quietly as Garth reads the language of the bush and leads the way.
Together, we track wildlife; zebra, kudu and even elephant had passed along this well-used path. We learn about their behaviours and habitats up close, such as that white-browed sparrow weavers’ nest on the sheltered side of thorny trees and that although we see many nests, only one pair in the group breeds. This, Garth explains this is to outfox snakes and vervet monkeys who raid nests for eggs and chicks.
The new growth on mopane trees (Colophospermum mopane) ranges from russet to emerald-green, the bright yellow blooms of the African wattle (Peltophorum africanum) add a splash of colour to the bush and the pretty white flowers of the Red-leaved medlar (Feretia aeruginescens) add a sweet fragrance to the air.
We come across fresh pile of zebra dung and watch in amazement as several species of dung beetle of varying size almost reduce it to nothing.
A scattering of porcupine quills dot the path, and a kudu doe watches us from a lofty position, we see hyena tracks as well as their scat, cicadas shrill while we pause to rehydrate and take in the view across the floodplain.
We pause to admire a set of kudu horns, all that remain from what was likely a lion kill. There are a few giraffe in the distance, Garth tells us that in the dry season the plains would be full of game, but the recent rain had dispersed the large herds. I don’t mind, it’s just wonderful to be in the bush and to be immersed into the wonder of it all.
We head back to the Landie, where a short game drive and brunch alongside the Zambezi River awaits. An elephant trundles out of the bush alongside the road, he pauses to check us out, his trunk out, sniffing at us curiously. It’s a special moment and I savour the experience.
But it’s time to refuel, and under the spreading branches of a huge mahogany (Trichelia emetica) Garth sets out our picnic-style brunch, complete with Persian rugs, polished silverware, and chilled bubbly.
Amarula coffee, bubbly ‘au naturelle’, or a mimosa (bubbles and orange juice)?
Tough choice… but brunch is served, and feeling famished after our walk in the bush I gladly tuck in. There’s muesli and yoghurt served in individual jars, cheese, ham, olives, fig preserve and yummy fresh bagels – gluten-free for my benefit.
Amidst this serenity, while savouring the deliciousness of brunch I reflect on our walk in the Zambezi National Park and the luxury of our bunch experience and ask Garth where the inspiration for The Victorian Safari Company came from. He tells us that he has always loved the bush, that he grew up watching his dad go off on fishing and hunting trips and knew that he would end up doing something safari related. After school and university his real education began, with time in the bush in southern Zimbabwe and later in Niassa Reserve in northern Mozambique, and as a professional guide for Wilderness Safaris at Ruckomechi Camp in Zimbabwe.
Garth points to a spot on the opposite bank of the Zambezi, it’s where his great-grandfather used to farm, he tells us of the rich family history in Livingstone stretching back to the construction of the Victoria Falls bridge. It’s where much of the authentic furniture and safari artefacts used in the setup of the luxurious Victorian-style rest camp of The Roosevelt Experience (a full-day experience in the park) originated.
I love that each piece of furniture and décor item, and each Persian carpet has a history and a story, even if it’s a replica of an original family piece. The concept in itself has a history and a story, and that is what gives this experience authenticity. Garth is another young entrepreneur committed to his beloved Zimbabwe, determined to share his love of this Country, conservation and the bush with his guests.
What could be better than sitting on a safari-style chair alongside the mighty Zambezi, Persian rug beneath my dusty boots, a gentle breeze blowing through my hair sipping on freshly brewed coffee with a dash of Amarula. I spot a small herd of elephants, they’re wallowing in the river, cooling off and quenching their thirst.
Our morning of insights and discovery almost at an end, just a slow game drive back remained… other than wonderful memories which would have to last until the next time I get to lace up my boots and get ready to explore the Zambezi National Park.
