I had heard much about Dusty Road, a hidden culinary gem founded and established by Sarah Lilford in 1998, in the heart of Chinotimba township on the outskirts of Victoria Falls. Away from the usual tourist spots, I knew we were going to be in for something exceptional.
It was pouring with rain when we arrived, so it was a mad dash from the road to the entrance, but one never complains about rain in Africa. As I enter, I’m greeted by the enticing aroma of food cooking on the open fire, setting the stage for an unforgettable dining experience. But first, a welcome drink with a difference – utshwala, locally brewed beer; maheu, a non-alcoholic flavoured maize drink and an iced tea made with tamarind, munyii berry and rosella (hibiscus)… the tea a clear favourite!
Sarah invites us into her ‘home’, the cozy atmosphere and vibrant decor tell a story of Zimbabwean heritage modelled after a traditional Zimbabwean’s home. There’s traditional art adorning the walls, found stuff repurposed, the vibrantly patterned fabric and eclectic mix of furnishings adding to the warmth of the place. The tables and chairs of the restaurant were made from recycled materials and the drinks glasses once had a life as wine bottles or Savannah cider bottles. Everywhere I looked there was something to catch the eye… a photographer’s dream.
Keen to say with the theme of all things local, I opt for a cocktail off the Township Tastes menu and decide on the Madonkini Fizz, a delicious blend of ginger, baobab (umkhomo) and vodka in preference to the Chinos Cheer made with chindambi (rosella), cane and masau.
We kick off our dinner with a selection of tapas, featuring wood oven baked maize bread (chimondho), sun-dried tomato, wild basil and peanut dip, nyimo and nyemba bean hummus, roasted peanuts, deep-fried kapenta (matemba), crisply fried sadza balls and a few dried mopane worms for good measure. I was particularly partial to the sadza balls with the tomato dip and had to remind myself that there was a main course coming!
We head to the buffet station where Chef Nyalani explains the local Zimbabwean dishes to us, and I decide on sadza with beef stew (nyama), and choose the Zambezi bream with lemon, chive and chindambi butter in preference to the chicken in peanut butter sauce, and add chomolia (African kale), inkobe (mixed bean and mealies) and the community grown salad. It was all delicious, a wonderful introduction to local Zimbabwe cuisine.
Despite having barely enough space to spare, there was no way I was passing on dessert! Soon we were savouring the delicate flavours of chocolate balls with amaranth bubbles, umkhomo (baobab) cream pots with masau fruit, wild honey and munyi berry sauce, and hutcha (which I think is hemp), marula and mongongo nut tart. My absolute best being baobab cream pots accompanied by masau and munyii berry sauce.
We complete our outstanding meal with an enamel mug of roasted and ground baobab coffee served with township cookies. Delish…
The Dusty Road experience is not just a culinary delight, but is also a wonderful introduction to Zimbabwean culture, a must do for everyone visiting this fabulous destination.
